I really must say a few things about dinner at La table de Chaintré in the heart of Pouilly-Fuissé - very, very good

Sébastien Grospellier's sincere and authentic cooking has earned a michelin star. His passion for flavours and their evocative staging sees him pull together a fabulous seasonal menu.

The restaurant itself is a modest stone cottage, prettily situated on a church square in the small village of Chaintré.

It has become a culinary reference in the region.

The cellar, with over 450 wines from Burgundy and beyond would virtually make for its own blog post. We started with a Blanc de Blanc Champagne. Sadly the name of the small independent grower escapes me, but we quickly moved on to the best bottle of Aligote (Domaine Coche-Dury) I've ever experienced. Fresh fruit, mineral complexity, a steely backbone, this showed a level of grace and polish I didn't know possible in this often il-treated variety.